Choosing the right hand pruners can feel a bit like Goldilocks trying out porridge – some are too big, some are too small, but one is just right. And just like Goldilocks, your comfort and the health of your plants depend on finding that perfect fit. The key lies in matching the pruner type to the branches you're tackling.
For the delicate work of pruning flowers, herbs, and small stems up to about half an inch thick, bypass pruners are your best friend. Think of them like a pair of sharp scissors – one blade bypasses the other for a clean, precise cut, minimizing damage to tender growth. These are perfect for deadheading roses, shaping herbs, or trimming back soft new growth on shrubs.
When you step up to slightly larger branches, say from half an inch to an inch thick, you'll want to consider anvil pruners. These work more like a knife on a chopping block – one sharp blade comes down on a flat surface, making a crushing cut. While not as precise as bypass pruners, they're great for dealing with tougher, woodier stems that might bend or slip away from bypass blades. Think pruning back deadwood or removing thicker branches on established shrubs.
Finally, for those really tough jobs – branches thicker than an inch – loppers are the tool of choice. Essentially long-handled pruners, loppers provide extra leverage to power through thicker branches without straining your hands. These are essential for larger pruning jobs like removing lower branches on trees or tackling thick, overgrown shrubs.
Remember, using the wrong pruner can damage your plants. Forcing a small bypass pruner through a thick branch can crush the stem and invite disease. Conversely, using loppers on delicate growth is like using a chainsaw to carve butter – overkill and likely to cause unnecessary damage. So, take the time to assess the size of the branches you're working with and choose the right tool for the job. Your plants (and your hands) will thank you.
Pruning is a vital part of maintaining healthy and productive plants, and hand pruners are a gardener's best friend for this task. But simply snipping away willy-nilly can do more harm than good. Knowing the right techniques for making effective pruning cuts is key to encouraging strong growth and preventing disease.
The first thing to remember is the importance of sharp, clean blades. Dull pruners crush rather than cut, leaving ragged wounds that invite infection. Before each pruning session, wipe your pruners with a cloth dipped in rubbing alcohol or a bleach solution to sanitize them. Sharpen them regularly with a sharpening stone or file, ensuring a clean, precise cut every time.
Next, understand where to make the cut. The goal is to remove unwanted growth while minimizing damage to the plant. For most cuts, aim for just above a bud or node, the point where a leaf or branch emerges. This encourages new growth in the desired direction. Cut at a slight angle, sloping away from the bud, so water runs off and doesn't pool, potentially causing rot.
When removing larger branches, the "three-cut method" prevents tearing the bark. Make the first cut underneath the branch, a few inches from the trunk, cutting about halfway through. The second cut should be further out on the branch, completely severing it beyond the first cut. This leaves a stub. Finally, make the third cut, removing the stub just outside the branch collar, the slightly swollen area where the branch joins the trunk. The branch collar contains cells that promote healing, so preserving it is crucial.
Thinning cuts, used to remove entire branches from the center of a plant, improve airflow and light penetration. These cuts should be made flush with the branch bark ridge, without leaving a stub. Heading cuts, on the other hand, shorten branches and encourage bushier growth. These are made just above a bud, as described earlier.
Don't be afraid to prune! With practice and attention to these techniques, you'll become proficient at making clean, effective cuts that promote the health and beauty of your plants. Remember, proper pruning is an act of care, shaping your plants for optimal growth and a bountiful harvest.
Maintaining sharp hand pruners is like keeping a good kitchen knife honed – essential for clean cuts and healthy plants. Dull pruners crush and tear branches, leaving ragged wounds that invite disease and pests. A little regular maintenance keeps your pruners snipping cleanly and extends their lifespan considerably.
Cleaning your pruners after each use is the first step. Simply wipe off any sap, dirt, or plant debris with a rag or a stiff brush. For sticky sap, a little rubbing alcohol works wonders. This prevents the build-up of gunk that can harbor bacteria and fungi, and also keeps the blades moving freely.
Sharpening should be done regularly, depending on how often you use your pruners. If you're pruning daily, a quick touch-up every few days is a good idea. For occasional use, sharpening once a month or at the beginning and end of the pruning season might suffice. You can use a sharpening stone, a diamond file, or even specialized pruner sharpeners. The key is to maintain the original bevel of the blade, making smooth, even strokes. Don't be tempted to over-sharpen, as this can weaken the blade.
Finally, lubrication is crucial for preventing rust and keeping the moving parts working smoothly. A few drops of light machine oil or even WD-40 applied to the pivot point and blades after cleaning and sharpening will do the trick. Just wipe off any excess to prevent attracting dirt.
Taking these simple steps to maintain and sharpen your hand pruners will not only make pruning easier and more efficient but also ensure the health of your plants and prolong the life of your valuable tools. It's a small investment of time that pays off big in the long run.
Hand pruners are essential tools for any gardener, especially those dealing with trees. They allow for precise cuts, shaping, and removal of dead or diseased branches. However, like any sharp tool, they require careful handling to avoid injuries. So, before you head out to tackle those overgrown branches, let's talk about safety precautions when using hand pruners for tree pruning.
First and foremost, sharp blades are crucial, not only for clean cuts on the tree but also for your safety. A dull blade requires more force, increasing the chance of the pruners slipping and causing an injury. Regularly sharpen your pruners and keep them clean. Sap and debris can build up, hindering performance and potentially harboring diseases. Speaking of clean cuts, always aim to cut away from your body. Visualize the path of the blade and ensure no part of you is in its way. This seems obvious, but it's easy to get caught up in the task and forget this basic principle.
Protective gear is your friend. Gloves are a must-have. They'll protect your hands from cuts, blisters, and thorns. Eye protection is also highly recommended. Small twigs and wood chips can fly up when pruning, and you don't want one ending up in your eye. Consider sturdy footwear as well, especially if you're working on uneven ground or near fallen branches.
When pruning higher branches, avoid overreaching. Use a stable ladder or pruning saw with an extension pole for those hard-to-reach spots. Losing your balance while wielding sharp pruners is a recipe for disaster. And speaking of stability, be mindful of your footing. Clear the area around the tree of any obstacles that could trip you up.
Finally, store your pruners safely when not in use. A sheath or a designated spot in your tool shed will prevent accidental cuts and keep the blades protected. Also, keep them out of reach of children.
Pruning can be a rewarding task, keeping your trees healthy and looking their best. By following these simple safety precautions, you can enjoy the job while protecting yourself from harm.
Arboriculture (/ˈɑËÂÂÂrbÉ™rɪˌkÊŒltʃər, É‘ËÂÂÂrˈbÉâ€ÂÂËÂÂÂr-/)[1] is the cultivation, management, and study of individual trees, shrubs, vines, and other perennial woody plants. The science of arboriculture studies how these plants grow and respond to cultural practices and to their environment. The practice of arboriculture includes cultural techniques such as selection, planting, training, fertilization, pest and pathogen control, pruning, shaping, and removal.
A person who practices or studies arboriculture can be termed an arborist or an arboriculturist. A tree surgeon is more typically someone who is trained in the physical maintenance and manipulation of trees and therefore more a part of the arboriculture process rather than an arborist. Risk management, legal issues, and aesthetic considerations have come to play prominent roles in the practice of arboriculture. Businesses often need to hire arboriculturists to complete "tree hazard surveys" and generally manage the trees on-site to fulfill occupational safety and health obligations.[citation needed]
Arboriculture is primarily focused on individual woody plants and trees maintained for permanent landscape and amenity purposes, usually in gardens, parks or other populated settings, by arborists, for the enjoyment, protection, and benefit of people.[citation needed]
Arboricultural matters are also considered to be within the practice of urban forestry yet the clear and separate divisions are not distinct or discreet.[citation needed]
Tree benefits are the economic, ecological, social and aesthetic use, function purpose, or services of a tree (or group of trees), in its situational context in the landscape.
A tree defect is any feature, condition, or deformity of a tree that indicates weak structure or instability that could contribute to tree failure.
Common types of tree defects:
Codominant stems: two or more stems that grow upward from a single point of origin and compete with one another.
Included bark: bark is incorporated in the joint between two limbs, creating a weak attachment
Dead, diseased, or broken branches:
Cracks
Cavity and hollows: sunken or open areas wherein a tree has suffered injury followed by decay. Further indications include: fungal fruiting structures, insect or animal nests.
Lean: a lean of more than 40% from vertical presents a risk of tree failure
Taper: change in diameter over the length of trunks branches and roots
Epicormic branches (water sprouts in canopy or suckers from root system): often grow in response to major damage or excessive pruning
Roots:
Proper tree installation ensures the long-term viability of the tree and reduces the risk of tree failure.
Quality nursery stock must be used. There must be no visible damage or sign of disease. Ideally the tree should have good crown structure. A healthy root ball should not have circling roots and new fibrous roots should be present at the soil perimeter. Girdling or circling roots should be pruned out. Excess soil above the root flare should be removed immediately, since it presents a risk of disease ingress into the trunk.
Appropriate time of year to plant: generally fall or early spring in temperate regions of the northern hemisphere.
Planting hole: the planting hole should be 3 times the width of the root ball. The hole should be dug deep enough that when the root ball is placed on the substrate, the root flare is 3–5cm above the surrounding soil grade. If soil is left against the trunk, it may lead to bark, cambium and wood decay. Angular sides to the planting hole will encourage roots to grow radially from the trunk, rather than circling the planting hole. In urban settings, soil preparation may include the use of:
Tree wells: a zone of mulch can be installed around the tree trunk to: limit root zone competition (from turf or weeds), reduce soil compaction, improve soil structure, conserve moisture, and keep lawn equipment at a distance. No more than 5–10cm of mulch should be used to avoid suffocating the roots. Mulch must be kept approximately 20cm from the trunk to avoid burying the root flare. With city trees additional tree well preparation includes:
Tree grates/grill and frames: limit compaction on root zone and mechanical damage to roots and trunk
Root barriers: forces roots to grow down under surface asphalt/concrete/pavers to limit infrastructure damage from roots
Staking: newly planted, immature trees should be staked for one growing season to allow for the root system to establish. Staking for longer than one season should only be considered in situations where the root system has failed to establish sufficient structural support. Guy wires can be used for larger, newly planted trees. Care must be used to avoid stem girdling from the support system ties.
Irrigation: irrigation infrastructure may be installed to ensure a regular water supply throughout the lifetime of the tree. Wicking beds are an underground reservoir from which water is wicked into soil. Watering bags may be temporarily installed around tree stakes to provide water until the root system becomes established. Permeable paving allows for water infiltration in paved urban settings, such as parks and walkways.
Within the United Kingdom trees are considered as a material consideration within the town planning system and may be conserved as amenity landscape[2] features.
The role of the Arborist or Local Government Arboricultural Officer is likely to have a great effect on such matters. Identification of trees of high quality which may have extensive longevity is a key element in the preservation of trees.
Urban and rural trees may benefit from statutory protection under the Town and Country Planning[3] system. Such protection can result in the conservation and improvement of the urban forest as well as rural settlements.
Historically the profession divides into the operational and professional areas. These might be further subdivided into the private and public sectors. The profession is broadly considered as having one trade body known as the Arboricultural Association, although the Institute of Chartered Foresters offers a route for professional recognition and chartered arboriculturist status.
The qualifications associated with the industry range from vocational to Doctorate. Arboriculture is a comparatively young industry.
Pruning is a horticultural, arboricultural, and silvicultural practice involving the selective removal of certain parts of a plant, such as branches, buds, or roots.
The practice entails the targeted removal of diseased, damaged, dead, non-productive, structurally unsound, or otherwise unwanted plant material from crop and landscape plants. In general, the smaller the branch that is cut, the easier it is for a woody plant to compartmentalize the wound and thus limit the potential for pathogen intrusion and decay. It is therefore preferable to make any necessary formative structural pruning cuts to young plants, rather than removing large, poorly placed branches from mature plants.
Woody plants may undergo a process referred to as "self-pruning", where they will drop twigs or branches which are no longer producing more energy than they require. It is theorized that this process can also occur in response to lack of water, in order to reduce the surface area where water can be lost.[1] This natural shedding of branches is called cladoptosis.
Specialized pruning practices may be applied to certain plants, such as roses, fruit trees, and grapevines. Different pruning techniques may be used on herbaceous plants than those used on perennial woody plants.
Reasons to prune plants include deadwood removal, shaping (by controlling or redirecting growth), improving or sustaining health, reducing risk from falling branches, preparing nursery specimens for transplanting, and both harvesting and increasing the yield or quality of flowers and fruits.
Branch wood is an individual stem that grows off of another stem.
Trunk wood is the main stem of a tree which individual stems grow out of.
This refers to the area below the union of where branch wood attaches with the trunk/stem wood. This can often appear raised.
This refers to the junction between branch wood and trunk/stem wood. It usually looks raised. [2]
Pruning in an urban setting is crucial due to the tree being in drastically different conditions than where it naturally grows.[3]
Arborists, orchardists, and gardeners use various garden tools and tree cutting tools designed for the purpose, such as secateurs, loppers, handsaws, or chainsaws.[4] Additionally in forestry, pole pruners (averruncators in British English) and pole saws are commonly used, and these are often attached to poles that reach up to 5–6 m (16–20 ft). This is a more efficient and safer way of pruning than with ladders. These bush saws on polls have also been motorized as chainsaws which is even more efficient. Older technology used Billhooks, Kaiser blades, and pruning knives. Although still used in some coppicing, they are not used so much in commercial forestry due to the difficulty of cutting flush with the stem. Flush cuts happen when a pruner cuts into the cambium layer of the main trunk, which can happen when a pruner is not precise with pruning cuts, and removes a portion of the branch collar, which can put the tree at risk of entry cords from forest pathogens.
Although there are several different types of pruning, they can be simplified into two categories. One of which is cutting the branch back to a specific and intermediate point, called a "reduction cut", and the other of which is completely removing a branch back to the union where the branch connects which the main trunk, called "removal cut".[5]
A "reduction cut" is when one removes a portion of a growing stem down to a set of desirable buds or side-branching stems. This is commonly performed in well trained plants for a variety of reasons, for example to stimulate growth of flowers, fruit or branches, as a preventive measure to wind and snow damage on long stems and branches, and finally to encourage growth of the stems in a desirable direction.
In orchards, fruit trees are often lopped to encourage regrowth and to maintain a smaller tree for ease of picking fruit. The pruning regime in orchards is more planned, and the productivity of each tree is an important factor.
Branches die off for a number of reasons including sunlight deficiency, pest and disease damage, and root structure damage. A dead branch will at some point decay back to the parent stem and fall off. This is normally a slow process but can be hastened by high winds or extreme temperatures. The main reason deadwooding is performed is safety. Situations that usually demand removal of deadwood include trees that overhang public roads, houses, public areas, power lines, telephone cables and gardens. Trees located in wooded areas are usually assessed as lower risk but assessments consider the number of visitors. Trees adjacent to footpaths and access roads are often considered for deadwood removal.[8]
Another reason for deadwooding is amenity value, i.e. a tree with a large amount of deadwood throughout the crown will look more aesthetically pleasing with the deadwood removed. The physical practice of deadwooding can be carried out most of the year though should be avoided when the tree is coming into leaf. The deadwooding process speeds up the tree's natural abscission process. It also reduces unwanted weight and wind resistance and can help overall balance.
Preventative and structural pruning can be done to mitigate several issues young trees may have in the future. The structural pruning can reduce tree stress, increase the lifespan of trees, and promotes resistance to damage due to natural weather events. Attributes of trees with good structure include excurrent growth by having a single dominant leader, branch unions without included bark, and a balanced canopy. Structural pruning does this by developing or maintaining a dominant leader, identify the lowest branches in the canopy, prevent branches below the permanent canopy from growing too large, keeping all branches less than one half the trunk diameter, space main branches along one dominant trunk, and suppress growth on branches with included bark. [9]
Subordination pruning is done on limbs that will exceed 50% percent of the stem diameter. A reduction cut may be performed while still allowing about 50% of the branch. This is done to help maintain form and deter the formation of co-dominant leaders. Temporary branches may be too large for a removal cut so subordination pruning should be done to slowly reduce a limb by 50% each year to allow the tree to properly heal from the cut. As a tree becomes larger the slower it grows. Reducing the larger limbs for eventual removal will allow for the tree to promote new growth rather than using energy in encouraging unwanted limbs to continue to grow. Removing a large branch increases the likelihood of the cut to not heal properly which also may attract insects, diseases and fungus. [9][10]
Crown thinning is the removal of live healthy branches which increases light penetration, air circulation and reduces wind resistance which reduces risks from damage and the possibility of pest infestation. [11]
Crown raising involves the removal of the lower branches to a given height. The height is achieved by the removal of whole branches or removing the parts of branches which extend below the desired height. The branches are normally not lifted to more than one third of the tree's total height.
Crown lifting is done for access; these being pedestrian, vehicle or space for buildings and street furniture. Lifting the crown will allow traffic and pedestrians to pass underneath safely. This pruning technique is usually used in the urban environment as it is for public safety and aesthetics rather than tree form and timber value.
Crown lifting introduces light to the lower part of the trunk; this, in some species can encourage epicormic growth from dormant buds. To reduce this sometimes smaller branches are left on the lower part of the trunk. Excessive removal of the lower branches can displace the canopy weight, this will make the tree top heavy, therefore adding stress to the tree. When a branch is removed from the trunk, it creates a large wound. This wound is susceptible to disease and decay, and could lead to reduced trunk stability. Therefore, much time and consideration must be taken when choosing the height the crown is to be lifted to.
This would be an inappropriate operation if the tree species’ form was of a shrubby nature. This would therefore remove most of the foliage and would also largely unbalance the tree. This procedure should not be carried out if the tree is in decline, poor health or dead, dying or dangerous (DDD) as the operation will remove some of the photosynthetic area the tree uses. This will increase the decline rate of the tree and could lead to death.
If the tree is of great importance to an area or town, (i.e. veteran or ancient) then an alternative solution to crown lifting would be to move the target or object so it is not in range. For example, diverting a footpath around a tree's drip line so the crown lift is not needed. Another solution would be to prop up or cable-brace the low hanging branch. This is a non-invasive solution which in some situations may be more economical and environmentally friendly. [12]
Selectively pruning a window of view in a tree.
Reducing the height and or spread of a tree by selectively cutting back to smaller branches and in fruit trees for increasing of light interception and enhancing fruit quality.
A regular form of pruning where certain deciduous species are pruned back to pollard heads every year in the dormant period. This practice is usually commenced on juvenile trees so they can adapt to the harshness of the practice. This practice can be used for tree shaping but is also used in specific species which young branches can be sold for floral arrangements.
Deadheading is the act of removing spent flowers or flowerheads for aesthetics, to prolong bloom for up to several weeks or promote rebloom, or to prevent seeding.
In general, pruning deadwood and small branches can be done at any time of year. Depending on the species, many temperate plants can be pruned either during dormancy in winter, or, for species where winter frost can harm a recently pruned plant, after flowering is completed. In the temperate areas of the northern hemisphere autumn pruning should be avoided, as the spores of disease and decay fungi are abundant at this time of year.
Some woody plants tend to bleed profusely from cuts, such as mesquite and maple. Some callus over slowly, such as magnolia. In this case, they are better pruned during active growth when they can more readily heal. Woody plants that flower early in the season, on spurs that form on wood that has matured the year before, such as apples, should be pruned right after flowering as later pruning will sacrifice flowers the following season. Forsythia, azaleas and lilacs all fall into this category.